Bakewell

Bakewell, Derbyshire Dales — the only town within the Peak District National Park

Location Profile
Type Market town and civil parish
District Derbyshire Dales
County Derbyshire, England
Region Peak District National Park
River River Wye
Elevation c. 410 ft (125 m) at town centre
Population 3,949 (2011 census)
Postcode DE45
Market Charter Granted 1330
Listed Buildings 183 (incl. Grade I bridge and church)
First Appearance Cambion, Chapter Thirteen: The Coin That Never Spent

Bakewell

The only town within the Peak District National Park.


Overview

Bakewell is a market town and civil parish in the Derbyshire Dales district of Derbyshire, England. It lies on the River Wye, some fifteen miles south-west of Sheffield and twenty-one miles north of Derby, and is the largest settlement and the only town within the boundaries of the Peak District National Park. The civil parish recorded a population of 3,949 at the 2011 census. It is sometimes styled the “Capital of the Derbyshire Dales” in tourist material; the Peak District National Park Authority maintains its administrative headquarters at Aldern House on the southern edge of the town.

Bakewell is, by some measures, one of the older continuously occupied settlements in the central Peak. Its name derives from the Old English personal name Badeca with the suffix wella, ‘spring’ or ‘stream’, recorded in the Domesday survey of 1086 as Badequella. A market charter has been held since 1330, and a Monday market continues to run in the town centre to the present day.


Geography & Atmosphere

The town sits in the valley of the River Wye, a major tributary of the Derwent, which rises on Axe Edge above Buxton, runs eastwards through the limestone dales, and joins the Derwent at Rowsley a few miles south of the town. The centre of Bakewell stands at roughly four hundred and ten feet above sea level, with the higher streets climbing the valley sides toward six hundred feet. The country immediately around the town is the gentler, pastoral White Peak rather than the heather-and-gritstone moorland of the Dark Peak further north: rolling limestone fields divided by drystone walls, ash and sycamore in the cloughs, sheep on the upland pastures.

The town centre is compact and largely built of pale local limestone. A market square at its heart anchors a network of narrow streets of small shops, cafes, banks and pubs, almost all of them in stone buildings of the seventeenth, eighteenth or nineteenth century. The medieval five-arched bridge over the Wye carries the main road through the town across the river on the same gritstone arches it has been crossing on since the late thirteenth or early fourteenth century. The parish church of All Saints stands on a low hill above the town, its octagonal tower and spire visible from much of the surrounding valley. In summer Bakewell is busy with day-trippers; in winter, when the coaches stop running, it reverts to the working centre of a livestock and agricultural hinterland that has used the town in much the same way for the better part of a millennium.

History

Bakewell's site has been settled since well before the Anglo-Saxon period. The valley contains a cluster of warm, iron-bearing (chalybeate) springs and wells — a dozen or so were once recorded — which appear to have drawn Iron Age and, later, Roman attention; the town's very name (the well of Badeca; earlier still, the place of bath-springs) preserves that origin. There is no surviving evidence of a major Roman settlement in the centre, but Roman finds in the surrounding limestone dales are common, and the springs are likely to have been used.

The first secure historical reference is in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle for the year 924, in which King Edward the Elder is recorded as marching with his army from Nottingham to Badecanwellan, where he commanded a fortification to be built and garrisoned. By the time of the Domesday survey of 1086 the place is recorded as Badequella, with a church and a mill and lands held by the Crown. The settlement lay within the Anglian kingdom of Mercia, on a contested frontier between English and Danish jurisdictions in the ninth and tenth centuries; the parish church preserves Anglo-Saxon stonework, including a ninth-century cross shaft, that pre-dates the Norman building it now sits within.

In 1330, John Gernon claimed by writ of quo warranto the right to hold a Monday market and two annual fairs at Bakewell. The Monday market has run, in some form, ever since. The medieval town developed in the limestone wedge between the river and the church hill; the main road between Buxton and Chesterfield ran through it, and continues to. By the seventeenth century the town had a stone-built town hall (1602, in King Street) and a bath-house, completed in 1697 at the expense of the Manners family of Haddon, then Earls (and later Dukes) of Rutland, to enclose the principal warm well in the town centre.

The eighteenth and nineteenth centuries brought lead mining, limestone quarrying and fluorspar extraction in the surrounding hills, and a degree of light industrial prosperity that culminated in the opening of Bakewell railway station in 1862, on the Midland Railway main line from London to Manchester via the Peak. John Ruskin, characteristically, objected; he complained that the railway would now allow “every fool in Buxton” to reach Bakewell, and vice versa, in half an hour. The line closed in 1968; its trackbed survives as the Monsal Trail. The Peak District National Park, the first such park designated in the United Kingdom, was created around the town in 1951; in 1968 the Park Authority took up residence at Aldern House. Bakewell has since become, by some distance, the most visited town inside the National Park's boundaries.

It has not always been so quiet. In 1797, around a thousand farm labourers and small farmers from Bakewell and the surrounding villages gathered in the town to protest the Militia Act's compulsory ballot for service in the Napoleonic Wars; the protest spread to Ashbourne and Wirksworth before being suppressed by the magistracy. The Bakewell Riots are now a footnote in most histories, but they remain the largest civil disturbance the town has produced.


Landmarks & Heritage

Bakewell Bridge, the gritstone five-arched road bridge over the Wye at the centre of the town, is the oldest substantial structure in Bakewell still in continuous everyday use. It is variously dated from the late thirteenth to the early fourteenth century; it is Grade I listed and a Scheduled Monument, and is one of the oldest bridges of its kind in regular vehicular service in England. The bridge is also the site — in recent decades, and to the visible irritation of Derbyshire County Council, who periodically have to take them off — of the largest collection of ‘love-locks’ on any structure in the county.

All Saints Church, the parish church, stands on the hill above the town. The present building is largely thirteenth- and fourteenth-century, with a spire and unusual octagonal tower added in the same period; a sympathetic Victorian restoration left the medieval fabric mostly intact. The church preserves a remarkable collection of Anglo-Saxon and Norman carved stones, including a ninth-century cross shaft and a number of grave covers, suggesting that the present church was preceded by an earlier minster of some importance during the late Saxon period.

The Old House Museum, in Cunningham Place just below the church, occupies a Tudor parsonage of 1534 — one of the oldest domestic buildings in Bakewell — and is now run as a small local history museum. Aldern House, on the southern approach to the town, is a nineteenth-century gentleman's residence converted in 1968 to serve as the headquarters of the Peak District National Park Authority. The town has, in total, a hundred and eighty-three listed buildings.

The Bakewell Show, an agricultural and country show inaugurated in 1819 and held over two days each August on the showground across the river, is one of the larger surviving regional shows in England, attracting attendances of around fifty thousand in a good year.


The Bakewell Pudding

Bakewell's best-known cultural export is the Bakewell Pudding, a regional pastry consisting of a flaky pastry shell spread with a layer of strawberry or raspberry jam and topped with an egg-and-almond filling. It is, the town will tell you with feeling, not a Bakewell Tart — the tart is a quite separate confection, descended from the pudding, with a sponge filling and an icing on top. The tart is made commercially across England; the pudding is, by tradition, made and sold only here.

The pudding's origin is a matter of cheerful local dispute. The most widely repeated story places its accidental invention at the White Horse Inn (later the Rutland Arms) in or around the 1860s, when a cook misunderstood the landlady's instructions for a strawberry tart and spread the egg-and-almond mixture over the jam rather than mixing it into the pastry; the resulting dish proved popular enough that the landlady began to sell it deliberately. Two principal pudding shops in the town — the Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop and the Bakewell Pudding Parlour — each maintain, with considerable dignity, that their respective recipe is the authentic original. The dispute is unlikely to be settled in either direction.


Role in the Saga — Cambion spoilers Contains plot reveals from Book One.

Bakewell is one of five Derbyshire and South Yorkshire towns at which an anomalous one-pound coin appears in the six-week period following Robert Knight's manifestation event of November 1995. Declan Marsden, tracing the coins from a single anomalous pound recovered at The Rail and Reservoir, identifies the five locations as Derby, Matlock, Bakewell, Chesterfield and Sheffield. The Bakewell coin is established as having appeared before the Matlock coin; the full chronological sequence of the other three is not given in the text. All five towns lie within forty miles of Hope's End, and the geographical distribution forms an inward-tightening pattern around the village.

The coins themselves are physically distinctive. Each one carries the same mint mark, weighs three times what a sterling pound coin should weigh, and remains warm to the touch in any temperature, including in December weather. They are not in normal circulation; they are, on Declan's account, planted by hand — in Bakewell, as in Matlock and at The Rail and Reservoir, by the same unknown woman, who pays for a small purchase with the coin and leaves. Declan's identification of the pattern is grounded in his Beowulf-archive knowledge of similar coins surfacing in the margins of historical clusters of supernatural disturbance:

Same mint mark. Same weight—three times what sterling should be. Same warmth, even in December. And wherever it's been, people start seeing things they want. Things they'd kill for. That's how Mammon works—not by taking, but by making you reach. Declan Marsden, Cambion, Chapter Thirteen.

The implication is that the manifestation of Robert Knight in November 1995 has drawn the attention of Mammon, one of the Seven, who is now circulating coins through the towns surrounding Hope's End in pursuit of the boy. The pattern's passage through Bakewell, an unexceptional market town whose Monday economy depends on the unconsidered hand-to-hand passage of cash, is in keeping with how the saga has Declan describe Mammon's working method: vice spreading across Derbyshire “like rot through timber.” The town does not register itself as part of any pattern. Whatever warmth the wrong pound carries passes hand to hand in a place practised in the ordinary inattention of small-town commerce.

Bakewell makes one further, glancing appearance in the saga, in early 2000: when a Hope's End villager returns a Y2K-contingency generator to the plant-hire firm in Bakewell, the detail is offered as part of the village's post-Millennium reversion to the ordinary. Bakewell is, in this glimpse, simply where the plant hire is. The town is normal; it is the saga that is not.


Trivia

  • The Domesday Book of 1086 records Bakewell as Badequella, derived from an Old English personal name (Badeca) and the suffix wella, ‘spring’. The town has been associated with its warm springs since long before the present spelling settled. There were, at the height of their use, around twelve such chalybeate wells in and around the town centre.
  • The 1697 Bakewell bath-house, built by the Manners family of Haddon over the principal warm well, still stands at the edge of what are now the Bath Gardens. The bath itself is no longer accessible to the public, but the well's outflow continues to fill an ornamental trough in the gardens.
  • The Old House Museum, just below the parish church, occupies a Tudor parsonage of 1534, making it one of the oldest surviving domestic buildings in the central Peak District.
  • The Bakewell Riots of 1797 saw approximately a thousand farm labourers and small farmers gather in the town to oppose the Militia Act's compulsory ballot for service in the wars against revolutionary France. They were eventually dispersed by the local magistracy. The Riots are the largest single civil disturbance recorded in the central Peak.
  • Bakewell railway station closed in 1968. Its trackbed survives as the Monsal Trail, an eight-and-a-half mile shared-use path along the former Midland Railway line. Local interest in restoring rail service to Bakewell has been intermittent but persistent for half a century.
  • The two principal Bakewell-Pudding shops in the town — the Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop and the Bakewell Pudding Parlour — each claim to use the only authentic original recipe. The dispute is conducted with great civility, and is unlikely to be resolved.

Appearances

Title Role Notes
Cambion
Book One · Book of Thoth Saga
Referenced; Mammon Pattern Location One of the five Derbyshire and South Yorkshire towns named in Declan Marsden's account of the anomalous-coin pattern in Chapter Thirteen: The Coin That Never Spent. Mentioned again in passing in Chapter Thirty-Nine, in connection with a returned Millennium-eve generator. The town never appears as a directly-set scene.